SIGHTSEEING IN OCHO RIOS (Courtesy of the Travel Channel)

 

Though Ocho Rios is surrounded by natural beauty—waterfalls, tropical gardens and jungled mountains—the town itself, with all of 5,800 residents, is little more than a hodgepodge of modern strip malls and shopping centers catering to tourists. You can easily tour the town on foot in an hour or so, and if shopping is what you’re after, everything is conveniently side by side on Main Street, which lies just east of the terminal. (Note that the main north coast highway is shown on some maps as “Main Road,” but it’s actually DaCosta Drive and not to be confused with Main Street.)

 

You’ll find the Jamaica Tourist Board Office on Main Street (upstairs in the Ocean Village Shopping Centre), along with banks, restaurants, the post office, the Ocho Rios Craft Market and the Vegetable Market. The markets are lively fun, but be prepared to deal with aggressive vendors and lots of noise. Along the waterfront and within walking distance are high-rise resorts where you can swim, catch some rays and partake in your favorite water sport. The only historic site of interest is Ocho Rios Fort (near Reynolds Pier). The 17th-century structure has recently been renovated and contains two original cannons.

 

SIGHTSEEING ELSEWHERE

 

One of the most popular attractions in Jamaica is Dunn’s River Falls, a 15-minute drive west of Ocho Rios. You can climb the natural steps to the top of the 600-ft/180-m tiered waterfall or just gaze at the falls from a viewing platform. The falls can be slippery—wear a swimsuit and tennis shoes or swim socks. The safest way to climb is with a guide who will take you by the hand and lead you up the tiered falls and into some small caves. There’s a nice beach for swimming and sunning where the river empties into the Caribbean. The jungle setting is gorgeous, but the area is highly commercialized. At the top of the falls is a village full of crafts shops, T-shirt stands and hair-braiding kiosks. (Open daily 8:30 am-4 pm; US$6 adults, US$3 children, including guided climb; phone 974-2857.)

 

The best way to reach the falls is by taxi. One-way trips from the piers or town run about US$20 for up to four people. You can also visit the falls as part of a taxi tour from the piers (including a short stop in Ocho Rios). Expect to pay about US$60 for one to four people. At that price, the taxi driver should wait while you climb the falls and enjoy a swim. Groups of 12 or more can bargain the fare down to US$10-$12 per person.

 

About 20 mi/32 km east of the port is Firefly, the late Noel Coward’s retreat above the fishing village of Port Maria. At 1,000 ft/300 m above the coastline, the estate offers a stunning view of Port Maria Bay and the town, with its old port and Anglican church. Firefly was renovated in the 1990s to evoke the heyday of the great playwright, who is buried in a corner of his garden, precisely where he enjoyed his evening brandy. (Open Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-5:30 pm; US$10 for admission and guided tour; phone 997-7201.)

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