OTHER SPORTS
Golf—Jamaica attracts some of the world’s great golfers (as well as determined hackers) to its 11 scenic, challenging courses. The best near Ocho Rios is Sandals Golf and Country Club, which has a clubhouse, restaurant and pro shop. Greens fees run US$70 for 18 holes. Add on US$12 for club rentals, US$30 for a cart and US$12 for the services of a caddy (phone 973-2561). There’s also a miniature golf course east of Ocho Rios at Prospect Plantation (US$5 adults, US$2.50 children; phone 974-1058).
Tennis—You can play tennis at most resorts for a small hourly fee. To reserve court time, contact Sandals Ocho Rios (phone 974-5691 or 974-5696), Sans Souci (phone 994-1206 or 994-1209) or Ciboney (phone 974-1027 or 974-1029).
Horseback Riding—One of the best equestrian facilities in the Caribbean, Chukka Cove Farm, is in St. Ann’s Bay, west of Ocho Rios. The club offers one-hour trail rides, two-hour mountain rides and three-hour beach rides (daily 8 am and 11 am; US$30-$55; phone 972-2506). Prospect Plantation, 2 mi/3 km east of Ocho Rios, gives rides through tropical forest and along the White River gorge (Monday-Saturday at 10:30 am, 2 pm and 3:30 pm; US$20-$50; phone 994-1058).
NATURE
You can explore the hilly, jungled terrain above Ocho Rios in two gardens that can be reached off the Kingston road east of town. Coyaba River Garden and Museum, on the site of an ancient Arawak village in Shaw Park Ridge, is a natural river garden made accessible by walkways and footbridges that lead you over a cascading stream and past natural aquariums formed by deep pools. Among the labeled plants are many rare species, and there’s also a cactus garden. Owner Simon Stuart or manager Toni Allen will be happy to answer your questions if they are around. A museum at the gardens covers Jamaica’s history—look for the replica of an Arawak bohio (house). And don’t miss the small art gallery of local art and the gift shop: We found more high-quality selections there than in most stores. (Open daily 8:30 am-8 pm; US$4.50; phone 974-4568.)
Sharing the Shaw Park Ridge with Coyaba is Shaw Park
Botanical Gardens, which displays the island’s flora in a formal
setting.
Artfully planted trees and flowering shrubs such as hibiscus, bougainvillea and oleander vie with the many species of ferns. (It’s said that a cutting from the park’s Jamaican sword fern was taken to Boston in 1793 and crossbred to yield the Boston fern.)
The gardens are open daily 8 am-5 pm (US$4 adults, US$2 children; phone 974-2723).
Jamaica has more than 500 species of ferns, and many of them can be seen in Fern Gully, an old creek bed south of Ocho Rios that you can drive through. Stop and look, but please don’t touch: In the 1960s and 1970s Fern Gully was almost decimated by cutting-happy tourists. Jamaicans are understandably sensitive about such removals. (Most countries won’t allow you to bring in plants anyway.)
Another way to explore the rivers and rain forests of Jamaica is to raft the beautiful White River on a sleek 30-ft/9-m bamboo raft-for-two. Be sure to wear a hat or rent an umbrella at the put-in point. (Even though the river is mostly overhung with trees and ferns, the sun will appear, and it can be harsh.) Calypso Rafting offers 45-minute rides for about US$35 per two-person raft (daily 8:3 0 am-5 pm; phone 974-2527).