DINING

Every local ethnic group has contributed to Jamaica’s justly famous food. There’s “jerk,” of course, a method of seasoning meat with pimento and pepper developed by the African Maroons; curry from the Indians; pita bread (called Syrian bread locally) and chickpeas from the Lebanese; and Chinese food galore.

Salted codfish, mackerel and herring are a legacy of slavery days. Salt fish and ackee, the island’s traditional dish, combines salted cod with ackee fruit (which tastes like slightly sweetened scrambled eggs), served with boiled green banana, johnnycakes (flour dumplings) and bammies (cassava cakes).

With local meals, expect side dishes of rice and peas (actually red kidney beans cooked with coconut milk and white rice), yams, dasheen, sweet potato and boiled flour or cornmeal dumplings. And definitely try harddough bread—the local version of sourdough—and Jamaican hush puppies.

Top local fast foods include patties (spiced meat in a flaky crust) and any of the colorful fruits sold by the street vendors. Beer drinkers will want to sample the local brew, Red Stripe. If you prefer liqueurs, try locally produced Tia Maria.

Local food is a bargain, but the more upscale international and Continental restaurants are pricey. Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$20-$50; $$$$ = more than US$50.

Several restaurants close to the cruise-ship piers serve local food. On Main Street is Double V Jerk Centre, known for its delicious jerk pork and chicken. You can get it to go, but you may need a soft drink or an ice-cold Red Stripe beer to wash it down. The place is particularly lively during lunchtime. (Open daily 10 am until late; no reservations; $; no credit cards; Main Street, phone 974-2084.) Also on Main Street you can enjoy a cozy Olde English atmosphere along with fresh seafood and Jamaican specialties at The Little Pub. (Open daily 10 am; no reservations; $$; major credit cards accepted; Main Street, phone 974-2324.)

For a more striking setting, try the Hibiscus Lodge, where you can dine on Continental cuisine at The Almond Tree on a terrace overlooking the sea. (Open daily 8 am-10 pm; reservations suggested for dinner; $$; major credit cards accepted; Main Street, phone 974-2813.) Romantics will like dining in a restored 1860s gingerbread-style house: Evita’s serves tasty Italian soups and salads as well as pasta. (Open daily 11 am; reservations required for dinner; $$$; major credit cards accepted; Eden Bower Road, phone 974-2333.)

If you have a taste for Chinese food, try Hong Kong International in Soni’s Plaza on Main Street. (Open daily 10 am-10 pm; no reservations; $; major credit cards accepted; Main Street, phone 974-0588.) For more upscale Chinese cuisine, opt for Mayflower Chinese Restaurant in Island Plaza on Main Street. (Open daily 11 am-10 pm; reservations suggested for parties of 10 or more; $$; major credit cards accepted; Main Street.)

The much photographed garden setting at The Ruins with its waterfall and lily ponds is worth a stop for a cocktail, but the food quality has definitely fallen off. The Chinese dishes are better than the rest, but none are noteworthy. (Open daily from 10 am for lunch and dinner; reservations for dinner a must; $$$; major credit cards accepted; DaCosta Drive, phone 974-2789 or 974-2442.)

Mom’s is the place for good local fast food—unpretentious, but clean. (Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner; no reservations; $; no credit cards; DaCosta Drive opposite the police station; no phone.) But for the ultimate in local flavor and delicious food cooked as you watch, head east on Highway A3 to the White River Bridge, below which is the Jungle Lobster House, a small wooden Rasta restaurant. The lobster isn’t cheap, but the fish and chicken are. (Open daily—no posted hours, but the owner is usually around; no reservations; $; no credit cards; no phone.)

Tipping: A 15% service charge is added at most hotels, 10%-15% at some restaurants, even for one person. If no service charge has been added, leave 10%-15%.

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